Assuming I have a time horizon >10 years.
Edit: thanks for all the replies!!
Compounding debts need to go first if their interest is higher than your savings.
Yes. So much yes.
I just put extra money in a 5% high yield savings account. It’s not exciting, but there’s no risk and it will pay off over time
There’s also hardly any reward (comparatively speaking). Yields are crazy high right now on savings accounts, but they’re going to continue to drop, vs investing in the stock market (over the long term) is much more likely to maintain a much higher rate of return. Even at 5%, you’re really only getting about 2% growth since inflation is stuck at 3% right now. That compares to a long term average in the stock market of 7-9% after inflation.
Not to say that OP should do that, necessarily. Especially if they haven’t built their emergency fund which is far more important than investing, until you have a safe amount.
You’re probably right, as I’m not an expert, so thanks for your input. I am still worried of how the stock market will change with the upcoming trainwreck
You gotta remember the time horizon, even with historically bad presidents in office, if you smooth the line of the stock market returns over 10, 20, or 30 years, it ends up looking like a really, really good as an investment opportunity. Especially if you’re into dollar cost averaging.
Basically, if Trump tanks the stock market by going way overboard with things like tariffs, that would (at least looking at historical trends, I’m no financial expert or anything) make for a killer time to buy into the stock market because you’re getting stocks at a “discount.” Then when a different president / legislature comes into office, and if they turn around the economy, your investment would rise faster than otherwise expected.
Again, you gotta do what’s right for you, this isn’t me saying you should absolutely invest or anything, especially if your basic needs aren’t met or your emergency savings aren’t at a good enough level to last 6–12 months unemployed. This is just how it has been for the last ~100 years.
Nah, just piss it away.
That’s 600/yr and a long enough horizon that most diverse portfolios are likely to be net positive (I’m seeing about 5,000 gained with 8% growth in a basic savings calculator)
I’d spend those 10 years trying to free up cash flow but time’s a powerful weapon regardless
8%? Thats 0 gains with inflation, right?
7-8% is the standard value used after taking inflation into account. It’s really 10%, but inflation eats 3% yearly, on average. Using the metric this way also conveniently means that the value you calculate for the end of compounding (in 35 years) is interpretable in todays dollars.
So 7% interest on 50$ monthly for 35 years means total principal of 21k$ and total of 83k$ (todays value).
See https://www.investor.gov/financial-tools-calculators/calculators/compound-interest-calculator
Do you have emergency money?
First start emergency fund, then take care of debt. Then build a savings for emergency fund, then invest.
Emergency fund money should be in a HYSA at least if not index funds.
Terrible advice.
Emergency money literally must be liquid or it is not, by definition, emergency money.
HYSA is liquid. Index is one step away from liquid
Not at minimum keeping it in a HYSA is losing 5% per year
The issue with keeping your emergency fund in an index fund is that the odds of your own personal crisis coinciding with a more widespread crisis is high. I got furloughed in April 2020. Had my emergency fund been in index funds, I would have had to realize all those market losses in order to use my emergency fund, which would have meant my emergency fund would have been a fraction of what it actually was since it was in a savings account.
For anyone with stable income, only debt who’s interest rate is at or above the potential interest you would earn investments should be paid down first. Any debt at a rate lower than you stand to earn, should be paid over time. Any debt lower than the rate of inflation should be paid as slow as the terms allow without penalty.
So my order of priority is: high interest debt>emergency fund>tax deferred investing>ira and investing>low interest debt>even more cash holding>debt below inflation.
Not everyone has stable income. And for them, attacking debt isn’t always possible, especially after they go to get their car inspected and have a $1000 bill to settle in order to get to work for their unstable income. That’s starting your emergency fund goes first.
You need your initial emergency fund to reasonably cover “a bump in the road”. You then get stable, attack debt, and build emergency fund to be 3-6months expenditures, in case of a serious emergency.
Only then do we begin gambling in the investment markets.
High interest debt is an emergency. Anything in the emergency category gets paid first. High interest debt is a trap, you can’t hope to meet any other goal in life if you don’t take care of that first.
Specifically if for retirement, time is your best friend. Anything you can put aside will be multiplied down the years and be much more when you need it most
Yes. I started with 50/month using Autopilot to get in on the Pelosi investment portfolio. I am up 18% for the year.
S&P is like 23% this year, chasing Pelosi has apparently underperformed.
It’s honestly probably better putting that amount of money into trying to get a better job over that time period via education, or taking time off to apply for new positions, or something similar.
$6000 total investment over 10 years even with decent interest on top would be made up in less than 2 years with a $5k raise.
It would be worth it with even $10. Do it.
Yes. If you can afford it, dumping that money into an ETF like VT, VTI, or VOO every month for the next 10 years is very likely to result in you turning a profit. Start with a Roth IRA and don’t bother with a standard brokerage account until you’re able to max out the contribution limit. If you want to do anything more complicated than buy big low cost ETFs study up first and go slow.
Yes, and actually with low amounts of money to work with you can make your contributions very efficient. To best spend save for retirement, choose the first option from this list that applies to you (and if you are able to save more later, go down the list after exhausting each option):
- 401k up to maximum company match
- pay off high-interest (>4%) debt
- IRA up to the contribution limit
- investment-type HSA up to the limit
- max out 401k contribution
- personal investment account without tax advantage
For most people, it’s recommended to use a traditional 401k and a Roth IRA, but it varies by situation. As for what to invest in, I would recommend a popular low cost ETF or index fund, like Vanguard or SPY. You can also look into ESGs if you want to do good with your money, but your expected earnings may be lower. I’m in ETHO and TICRX.
You might check out fire@lemmy.ml or personalfinance@lemmy.ml if you have questions about getting started.
Yes, saving is like a muscle you need to do it to get better with it. It’s far easier to turn 50/months into 200/month as your income grows, than starting at 200/month.
Yeah, finding some free ETF saving plan and investing 50 a month will give you some experience in investing. You can learn about, what’s an ETF, what’s diversification and how you react personally to seeing the number go up and down.
One has to start somewhere.
The others have made great points about how any amount adds up. Especially with compounding.
But the most important reason me just be making it a habit. If you are saving $50/month you have a place to put your savings and an investment strategy for that money. The next time you get a pay raise or get rid of some recurring spend it will be natural to start saving $60/month, then $100 and more and more. It is much easier to improve an existing habit than starting a new one. So as soon as you have the chance start that got habit.
