This is not the final design, it might gain a connector in the final. It might not. But even if it doesn’t, splicing the wires shouldn’t be too difficult for most who’d dare open their watch.
I’ve repaired and tinkered with many phones and computers, I thought I’d be able to change the battery in my third gen iPod nano… But I completely messed it up because of the soldering. It ain’t easy :(
Soldered in battery still…
This is not the final design, it might gain a connector in the final. It might not. But even if it doesn’t, splicing the wires shouldn’t be too difficult for most who’d dare open their watch.
True. Although I’d still find a way to mess it up somehow.
I’ve repaired and tinkered with many phones and computers, I thought I’d be able to change the battery in my third gen iPod nano… But I completely messed it up because of the soldering. It ain’t easy :(
The nanos are pretty nasty to work on in general
That’s me, every time. ‘It’s foolproof’, yeah, I’m about 200 times worse than any fool, sorry.
I’ll change 100 of those batteries before I do another Apple Watch battery or lcd
At this size battery connectors as way too much bulk.
I mean you see a connector right there for the daughterboard, but yeah, maybe it’s too bulky for the current case design.
How much current does that thin ribbon cable carry? Battery connectors need to be more robust.
A smart watch doesn’t require very much current.
Should still be able to carry 1 amp, shouldn’t it?